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How does one go about learning
the modeling business? In the past, it was tricky. There were no reliable
sources of information, no Internet, no web sites about modeling, and very
few books on the subject. You had to learn by going to an agency or by working
with some skilled agency photographer . You would learn the business through
the trial and error of working as a model. This had many problems, especially
since you could not trust the information which agencies gave you or their
referrals to photographers because they were perceived as the only legitimate
way to model. This perception made them the only game in town, and this gave
them power with no accountability.
Today, despite what some may say, it is different.
There are a good number of modeling books published and available (although
some are written by so-called “supermodels” who preach agency
propaganda; information which has been proven to be outdated. Since these
models are tight with large agencies and their entire careers are intertwined
with the old industry and old industry contacts, what do you expect them to
say - the truth?). There are also a lot of great modeling resource web site
such as this site, Independent Modeling, and other sites like Tampa Bay Modeling
and Florida Models.
The business has already changed, too. In the past, before the Internet and
low cost ways of models promoting themselves, you had to obtain representation
from an agency. Since the model agencies had all of the contacts and access
to the job information, the model had to do what they said even though the
agency represented the model and the agency was supposed to work for them.
The model had to contract the photographers that the agency told them to work
with in order to build their portfolio, and they had to coordinate their modeling
careers through the agency and their bookers. Of course, agencies never admitted
the flaws of such monopolistic business practices, and the potential for ethical
conflicts of interests often made the modeling industry a corrupt one full
of dangers for those models who weren’t good enough in the eyes of those
who called the shots. Many models never realized that agency bookers also
represented their competition and often played favorites with the models when
they picked them to go to castings (also referred to as go-see’s) or
gave them career guidance. Many so-called professional agencies didn’t
have much of an incentive to book models into jobs, too, as they made their
money by doing portfolio shoots with aspiring models or by getting kickbacks
from the photographers who they referred models to with their deceptive business
practices. Many models were lost in those days, and models were limited by
the very agencies who were supposed to be working for them.
We fully expect agencies and those who are associated with agencies to denounce
sources of information like Independent Modeling and to call us some sort
of scam. Sometimes, if you don’t bother to try to understand the motivation
of others, you automatically assume the worst. Other times, you understand
something all too well; you realize that it works and it is a threat to the
way that you do business. If models have a way to compete with the bookers
who normally hold all of the cards when it comes to model jobs, what do you
suppose it does to the power of an agency and the leverage that they have
over the careers of the models who they represent? What do you think they
will say?
The information to do this is on Independent Modeling and other great web
sites like Tampa Bay Modeling and Florida Models. The information is free,
too, with no obligation to buy anything or to obtain the services of advertisers
(although there will be a subscription membership version of Independent Modeling
in the future with more comprehensive model career tools and information.
Rest assured, however, that free counterparts of all the information which
you will need will remain).
What about so-called model resource sites that agencies maintain? Well, most
of these sites are full of agency propaganda, and you have to consider the
source. Once again, what do you expect them to say when they are facing the
prospect of losing their business monopolies? What about professionals who
refer models to such sites? Those are people without spines who play politics
so agencies will work with them, and they are unprofessional collaborators
who are no good for the career of any model. Stick with leaders who tell it
how it is; professionals with the courage to go against the flow of followers,
and who see genuine opportunities. That’s us, and we are here to help
models, photographers, and the business who book them. Don’t go to followers
to get your information. You need leaders like Independent Modeling, Tampa
Bay Modeling, and Florida Models.
So, are there any standard requirements for models and modeling careers? We
would have to say no. Sure, agencies and people in the industry will always
say 5' 8'’, but it is often an excuse to either make models want a career
more, setting them up for some portfolio sale or bait and switch, or to weed
out the less desirable prospects so they can represent more marketable models.
Height requirements, in fact, are subject to opinion and only apply to fashion
modeling when they do. Need proof? Supermodel Kate Moss is less than 5' 8'’,
and the girl does runway! Where was their so-called height requirement there?
So, what’s up with the 5' 8'’ rule, anyway? Well, it is simply
convenience for runway shows and fashion fittings. It takes less time when
most of the models wear roughly the same sizes and time constraints are tight.
For catalog modeling, however, it’s not a given. Do you think junior
sized models are subject to height requirements? No. When you see children
in a department store catalog, do the clothes fit? Of course they do! As a
matter of fact, if it is a department store catalog and the model sizes are
known (from their composite card stats), they should easily be able find clothes
that fit the model. How many department stores only deal in clothes for people
who are 5' 8'’? If there are any, they won’t be in business long.
This, of course, reminds us of the time when agencies were reluctant to represent
plus-sized models and department stores were reluctant to book them into their
catalog shoots, and the people who upheld the “standards” ignored
the fact that most of their customers in the general population are plus sized!
It only took a few smart independent models to skip the agencies and convince
a few art directors to book them to change that misconception, and this is
one example of how model and talent agencies are sometimes WRONG.
In the modeling industry, there are many examples of double-standards and
hypocrisy. As a rule of thumb, know that all so-called standards are subjective,
and are not absolute despite what so-called professionals claim. How do you
measure the perception of appearance or the marketability of a model? Since
such values are not absolute or quantitive, you cannot. Beauty, or the marketability
of a model, is indeed in the eye of the beholder.
Agencies have the right to keep their height standards, but please understand
that you don’t have to be 5' 8'’ to model or to have a modeling
career. The key is to establish, and show, a range of looks. If you have a
look that someone wants or needs, we’ll bet they could care less how
tall you are. They will book you, and there are lots of models out there who
book work and are under 5' 8'’, just like there are lots of models out
there who don’t depend upon agencies to book work.
As a rule of thumb, keep an open mind and realize that the more that you learn,
the more that you will be empowered in your career. Knowledge is everything.
With a modeling career, you will get out of it whatever you put into it, which
means that you will have to invest in professional tools such as portfolios
and composite cards (also known as zed cards, or zeds), will have to conduct
your modeling career with genuine integrity and professionalism, and will
have to consistently put forth an effort to work leads and book model jobs.
So, what exactly is modeling? Modeling is a visual form of marketing. Modeling
can be seen as a form of marketing, and it is a service which can be marketed
and sold without any middleman such as a model and talent agency. The smart
professional model, however, will still use agencies as a source of job leads,
although they will limit the agency influence on their career.
Want to learn more about modeling? Great! That is what this site is here for,
and you can put your credit cards away because we’re not going to charge
you. You have just started your journey through our tutorials, and we recommend
that you continue reading. Additionally, if you have any ideas or suggestions
for information that should be on this site, please contact us about it and
we will consider adding it.
NEXT TUTORIAL: Avoiding
Model Scams.
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©
Copyright 2006, 2007 Independent Modeling
UPDATED
06/22/07
POSTED
12/16/06
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The
agency way is no longer the only way of having a professional career as
a model. There is no arguing against common-sense and proven business
practices. Modern professional models think for themselves, network, and
book work both as independent models and by using agencies as one of many
sources of jobs. This is the future of the modeling industry.
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